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This chef from Madurai’s Natham has just won the prestigious James Beard Awards for best chef in New York State. His unapologetically rural cooking, from Dindigul biriyani to snail pirattal, is changing how the world sees Indian food

​This chef from Madurai’s Natham has just won the prestigious James Beard Awards for best chef in New York State. His unapologetically rural cooking, from Dindigul biriyani to snail pirattal, is changing how the world sees Indian food